shamil and tasjeel timing and locations

Shamil vehicle testing and registration centers are operated as a joint venture between Emarat, the UAE Ministry of Interior (MOI), and the Dubai RTA (Shamil first launched with Dubai Police in April 2003). Services available at Shamil VTCs:

Where to find Shamil Click here

• Traffic file opening
• Vehicle registration
• Transfer of vehicle registration
• Vehicle registration card re-issue if lost or damaged
• Number plate renewal
• Issue of clearance certificate, export certificate, or tourist certificate.
• Alteration of vehicle details
• International driving license

Click Centres		Call now		Area		Click to see map
Al Adhed		04-398 6006		Bur Dubai				Location map
Nad Al Hamar	04-289 4440	Deira			Location map
Al muhaisinah	04-267 1117	Al Ghusias			Location map
Shamil Ajman	06-748 1316	Ajman			Location map
Shamil RAK	07-221 0901	RAK			Location map
Shamil Fujairah		09-223 1968		Fujairah				Location map
Shamil UAQ	06-767 1694	UAQ			Location map

UAE Cars Insurance

We provide Car Insurance as low as 12$ per month.

We can collect the papers from your home doors without extras fees.

-Private Car

-Company Car

-Classic Car

-Motorcycle

-Trucks

-Motorhomes/caravans

-School Bus

-Workers Bus

-Export and Import

Insurance Quotes That Match Your Life Needs

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Hints and tips when buying a secondhand / used car

• What to look out for when buying used cars

This is always a mine field and nothing guarantees success but there are a few things to look out for before parting with your hard earned cash.
Obviously different countries have different rules but I am sure a lot of the following would apply wherever you are located.

• PRE-SHOPPING ADVICE

The depreciation of used cars is much less than new cars and, therefore, they are a more cost effective purchase.
Get your finance in place before choosing your car, this saves time as you know exactly which vehicles you can or cannot afford.
Be aware of the current "going rate" of vehicles before purchasing by checking guides available from most newsagents that list the value of most used cars.
Consider all different outlets such as trade-ins at new car dealerships, private sales etc.Cars less than three years old which have been driven 20,000 - 25,000 annually are probably the best buys. An average annual mileage is about 10,000, so for a 3 year old car mileage between 60,000 and 75,000 would be reasonable.   Anything over this could have been used for business and driven hard.
Small and medium saloons and hatchbacks are easier to maintain and repair than convertibles or luxury cars.

• GENERAL ADVICE WHEN INSPECTING VEHICLES

Check the engine plate on the car corresponds with that given on the registration documents and that it has not been tampered with or changed, Ask car owner to provide a detailed diagnostic report .

Never buy a car without test driving is yourself or by Cars expert.
First make sure you are insured to drive it then, if possible, take it on a drive that covers a mixture of conditions i.e. fast motorway driving, slow urban driving, twisting roads and don't forget to check reverse.

• BODYWORK

Always inspect the bodywork in good light. 
Look for corrosion or rust.  Rust is probably the most damaging thing of all on cars over five years old.
Surface blisters can be relatively harmless and easily treated but corrosion coming from the inside of the body panels is more serious.
Look for rust at the top and rear of the front wings, along the side sills, below front and rear bumpers and the bottoms of the doors.
Sometimes a rust blemish on the paintwork can indicate more serious corrosion underneath.  Press the panel gently with your thumb.  If there is a cracking noise it indicates advanced corrosion.
It is usually not worth repairing rust that has perforated the bottom of doors, the bodywork around the front and rear screen rubbers, on trailing edges of bootlids or tailgates and leading edges of bonnets and on rear wing panels.   These can only be repaired expensively by specialists and subsequent painting is costly.
Walk around the car and look along the doors and wings from each of the four corners.  Any crash repairs will show up if they have not been well done.  You will see ripples or a change in the texture of the paint if there is a lot of body filler underneath.  Take a small magnet with you, it will be attracted to metal but not to plastic body filler.  Look also for variations in the paint colour.
Water stains in the boot, around windows, on carpets and around the sunroof opening may indicate leaks.

• STRUCTURAL BODYWORK

Look for rust perforation on inner wings, the bulkhead and any cross members and chassis members visible under the bonnet.  If you see any, reject the car.
Beneath the car check side sills, chassis legs, cross members and subframes.  Tap suspicious areas with a lightweight hammer, or push hard with your hand to detect the 'give' of weakened metal.  Be wary of freshly applied underseal - could be hiding weakened metal.
Check the floorpan for corrosion.
Look at brake pipes, if they are crusted or pitted with rust, these could be dangerous.
Check suspension and steering mounting points for serious corrosion, especially under the bonnet.

• COLLISION DAMAGE

A car that has been in a collision can be dangerous, especially if its suspension and/or steering have been damaged.  
Examine under the bonnet for damage, creasing or replaced inner wings (unsightly welds are a give-away).   Also inspect the engine bay forward panels and forward chassis legs for repairs or creases.
When test driving the car the steering should be consistent with no tendency to pull either left or right.
Look under the carpet between the front and back doors for signs of welding or repair in case two halves of different cars have been welded together (cut and shut), which is extremely dangerous.

• INSIDE THE CAR

Check the odometer, the numbers may have been altered.
Look to see if the  mileage corresponds with the general condition of the car.  A worn brake pedal and wear marks on the gear lever indicate a car that might have done more than 60,000 miles.  A worn or sagging driver's seat and carpet are other signs of high mileage.
A very low mileage may indicate the car might have been left unused for long periods or used only for short journeys.  Both can cause engine problems.  A car that has been regularly used and serviced is a better bet.

• ENGINE

Have a look at the general state of the engine.  

A dirty engine and surrounding area suggests that the car hasn't been well looked after and that servicing may have been neglected.  
Conversely, a sparkling clean engine could have been steam cleaned to disguise problems such as oil leaks etc.
Before starting the engine remove the dipstick and check the colour of the oil.  If it is very black the car has probably not been recently, or regularly, serviced.  Also check for beige "mayonnaise" on the dipstick, a possible symptom of head gasket leakage.
Check the quantity and colour of coolant.  It should be the colour of antifreeze not rusty red.  An engine that has been run without antifreeze may have problems.
Listen to the engine starting up from cold.  The oil light should go out soon after the engine starts, if it doesn't there may be engine wear.
Heavy rattling or knocking noises shortly after start up could indicate wear of the crankshaft and big-end bearings.  Listen for clattering or light knocking noises from the top of the engine which indicate camshaft wear.

Turn on the ignition and open the throttle sharply. 

Check for black or blue smoke from the exhaust. 
Blue smoke comes from burning oil and shows engine wear, whereas black smoke is un-burnt fuel and has many possible causes.  
Check for smooth idling when warm.
When test driving check the engine does not misfire but pulls strongly and cleanly.  Check there are no pinking sounds (i.e. metallic rattling sound that occurs when the throttle is open).  If the car does misfire and the engine has electronic fuel or ignition control only buy it if the misfire is put right first.
Keep an eye on the temperature gauge or warning light which may indicate overheating.
Finally check for oil leaks.

• TRANSMISSION

most of transmission box in UAE are automatic, check the transmission dipstick for correct fluid level, this is best done with the engine hot and idling.   Also smell the dipstick, if it smells burnt steer clear of the car!
When driving check that the transmission changes down into each gear properly under full acceleration and at the right time.

• SUSPENSION

Check shock absorbers (dampers) by pushing down hard on the bodywork at the corners and letting go.  The car should rebound once just past the level position, then go back i.e. one and a half swings.  Any more than this indicates the shock absorbers need replacing.
Listen for knocks from the suspension over poor road surfaces which could indicate worn bushes, joint and dampers.  Take a note of the cars handling, if it is vague, "floaty" or bouncy, suspect worn dampers.
Check for fluid leakage from the dampers or struts.   Slight weeping is acceptable any more is not.

• STEERING

If the steering is vague and heavy the tyres may be worn or under pressurised.
Rock the steering wheel gently while watching the front wheel, there should not be any noticeable delay between steering wheel and road wheel movement.
Check for wheel wobble at speed.  This is often attributable to unbalanced front wheels.  Steering wheel shimmy at low speeds indicated distorted wheel rims.

• BRAKES

The brake pedal should offer good resistance and not sink most of the way to the floor when applied.
If a servo is fitted, check that it works by pumping the brake pedal several times, holding the pedal down and starting the engine.   You should feel the pedal creep down as it operates.
The care should not swerve when the brakes are applied hard at speed.  If it does, it may have seized or leaking wheel cylinders or calipers.
If the car judders when you apply the brakes this implies distorted front brake discs.  Inspect discs for heavy scoring or unpolished or corroded areas, they may need renewing.
Check the brake hoses under the wheel arches for cracking, chafing, swelling or leaks.

• TYRES

Check the treads and side walls on all four tyres (plus spare wheel) there should be more than 2mm of tread all over the tyre and the sidewalls should not be cracked or damaged.   

Uneven wear on treads suggests steering, tracking or suspension problems.

• BEFORE MAKING AN OFFER

If the car passes your inspection , test drive, And diagnose report here are a few more things to bear in mind before making an offer:-
In the UAE every car over three years old must have an annual (fahs) and, therefore,  ensure the certificate is current. Ask to see service and repair history and well as repair receipts.  Treat a denial that these receipts exist with suspicion.
Check the mileage on the odometer tallies with service and repair receipts.
Check the car's registration and chassis number matches those on the registration document.
Ask if it is permissible to have the car inspected by an independent mechanic.  If it is (and you can afford the added expense) ask the mechanic to carry out a cylinder compression test to assess the condition of the engine and also to estimate the cost of any repairs he thinks may be warranted.  You can then ask for the cost of these repairs to be deducted from the asking price.
If you have a car to trade in don't mention the fact until you have negotiated a discount for the one you want to buy.

If you are buying from a trader, depending on the value of the car, it may be worth investing in a warranty.  Read the warranty small print very carefully as some warranties exclude more than they cover.

after you have done all these checks you feel you have found "it" then don't sign anything but assure the vendor that the sale is "subject to a satisfactory inspection by an independent automobile association".

• Well, if after all this you still feel inclined to buy another car, best of luck!!!

• For further informations tips, and hints feel free to contact us or leave your message using our Talk here box and we would try to assist you with the best answers.

Points system to implemented in the UAE

The new Unified Federal Traffic Law comes into effect across all the emirates of the UAE on 01 March 2008. Penalties for various driving offences will become harsher
, and a black points system will be implemented (not an entirely new thing - the deduction of points has been around but rarely or never implemented). The cut off is 24 points in a year, after which a driver loses a licence based on the following:

• First time 24 points collected, lose driving licence for 3 months (if driver is over 21)
• Second time 24 points collected, lose driving licence for 6 months (or first time if driver is under 21)
• Third time 24 points collected, lose driving license for 12 months, and pass a driving test before it's returned

Points will expire after a year so it's only the total you collect within a 12 month period that you have to worry about. If a vehicle is spotted doing a point collecting activity, the owner is assumed to be the driver, and gets the points. If someone else was driving, they need to be sent to the cop shop to get their points, within a month of the offence, otherwise the vehicle may be impounded.
Apparently Government owned vehicles are exempt from the points system. What? Isn't it the driver that gets points, not the vehicle?

05 July 2009 - Pay fee to remove black points

It might be possible to remove some points by paying a fee (AED 100 per point)
 and attending lectures (AED 200 per lecture) at the Al Qusais / Al Ghusais police station in Dubai. Maximum 4 lectures / 8 points once per year per driver so if you've got 32 points or more, this won't save you (Gulf News report 05 July 2009).

UAE driving licences from any emirate

According to the Gulf News 19 February 2008, a police official who did not want to be identified said that UAE residents could apply for their UAE driving license an any emirate, it doesn't matter which emirate their residence visa is from. This is apparently part of the new Federal Traffic Law that takes effect from
01 March 2008. How that works in practice remains to be seen. In Dubai, the RTA is in charge of issuing licences, not the police.
A Khaleej Times report 26 August 2010 seemed to say that it is possible to get a driving licence issued in an emirate different from where you live, or where your residence visa is issued, based on a answer from the CEO of the RTA Licensing Agency, Ahmed Hashem Bahrozyan: When asked whether those with visa from one emirate and working in another would be issued driving licences from the place of their employment, Bahrozyan said that there is a Ministry of Interior policy regarding the issue, which is that the employee has to produce proof of his employment in the particular emirate from where the person wants a driving licence. "The person has to produce convincing proof that, for example, he/she works for an Abu Dhabi-registered company and currently serves in its Dubai branch, than we can open a driving file here, it is as simple as that."

Getting a Dubai driving license with a driving test

In Dubai, since the Roads and Transport Authority (RTA) took over the driver testing from the police in 2006, it sounds like it has become more difficult to pass a driving test, not that it was easy previously. Don't expect to pass first time round. Stories of people having to repeat the driving test 10-20 times are common. An additional irritation is that you may need to another 1-2 weeks of driving lessons which will cost you a few hundred dirhams.

03 February 2008 update: The RTA says, contrary to earlier reports, they are not increasing the number of lessons that learners need to do. It will remain at 40 lessons (there were earlier reports it would be increased to 120 lessons).

Usually you'll need to go to a driving school in Dubai for driving lessons. It is also possible to arrange these privately but make sure they're from someone qualified/registered and they have a proper learner's car - easy to recognise because they have dual control systems and are painted an awful color.
In early October 2006, the rule requiring an NOC (No Objection Certificate or letter) from your sponsor was reinstated. You need this before you can start taking driving lessons.
After the driving school has decided you're a good enough driver (that may depend more on how much cash they've received as lesson fees, than on your actual driving skills), they'll make an appointment for you to do a driving test with the Dubai Traffic Department.
You could try making an appointment directly with the Dubai Traffic Department but it would make sense to do a couple of lessons first. Not because you don't know how to drive (there are many licenced drivers in Dubai who obviously fit that category) but because the driving school will, in theory, prepare you for the driving test (as opposed to teaching you how to drive safely).
The Dubai driving test involves answering some multi-choice questions on theory and then a short drive around the block. A surprise for many will be that the driving test car will contain several applicants at once, and you take turns. The tester may be obnoxious and/or inconsistent but remain calm and polite. If you get failed the first time, you might get the same person next time round. Note also that you do the test in a different car than what you had driving lessons in, so the brakes, transmission, controls will be different. Try and practice short drives in different cars, especially if you're being tested in a manual car . The clutch always seems to be difficult for beginners to get used to.
When you do the test, make it obvious that you are adjusting seat and mirrors before starting, checking mirrors and over your shoulder before changing lanes, checking the rear view mirror, etc (same anywhere really).
The driving test results are notoriously random - anyone who's attempted it is bound to have a story. Most people take more than one try before succeding. There was supposedly a wait of six days before you could do a re-test. The RTA changed this to one month late in 2006. It may be reduced according to comments in Mar 2007 from the RTA.Check also if there is an extra fee for urgent applications to speed it up.
Although it's true that many people complain that it's impossible to pass the driving test in Dubai, you'll find it interesting while doing the test that some of your fellow examinees obviously have no idea how to drive in Dubai and should not be let anywhere near a car. Ever. Unless tied up, enclosed in a large bag and deposited in the trunk. You may have less sympathy for those who tell you stories of making their 20th attempt at getting a driving licence in Dubai after being in the car with one of them while they do their driving test in Dubai.
If you pass the driving test, then you'll get your Dubai driving license there and then - you'll need all the documentation listed in the previous section though.